AHHHH, TEQUILA! The
national drink of Mexico which is now enjoyed around
the world has it’s heart near Puerto Vallarta.
The name ‘Tequila’
comes from the name of the town where it was first
made, which in turn is named after a mountain peak
which rises above the town. Puerto Vallarta and
the town of Tequila both reside in the state of
Jalisco, which produces more Tequila than any other
state.
The
source of this legendary drink is not a type of cactus
(a common misconception), but rather the blue agave
plant, which has long bluish green spiny leaves with
sharp points and a large heart from which the juices
are extracted and then distilled twice. The heart
of the plant is called a ‘pina’ (Spanish
for ‘pineapple), because that’s exactly
what it looks like after the leaves have been cut
off. By federal law, Tequila may only be brewed in
a few states, and only from blue agave grown in those
areas. The “Denomination of Origin” law
has defined the area and includes the state of Jalisco
and some regions in the states of Guanajuato, Nayarit,
Michoacán, and Tamaulipas all of which have
similar reddish volcanic soil and climate.
THE
HISTORY OF TEQUILA begins in the 16th century, when
Spanish Conquistadors brought the process of distillation
to Mexico. The people of the town of Tequila were
willing to put this information to good use, and began
experimenting with the blue agave plant which they
knew contained fermentable sugars. For many years
tequila was a made locally, in small batches, and
it was relatively unknown outside of a few states
and Mexico City. Don Jose Guadalupe Cuervo was the
first to receive permission to produce tequila in
1765. In 1873, Don Cenobio Suaza exported the product
to the United States. In 1950 technology began to
take a leading role. The best creators of the famous
brew were even more advanced and with the new technology,
tequila could be distributed on a much larger scale.
The development of the Mexican tourism industry during
the 1980’s, however, exposed tequila to a wider
international audience, and it’s growth in popularity
around the world has boomed ever since. Tequila is
now one of the 3 top selling liquors in the entire
world, and there are now over 100 distilleries making
over six hundred brands of tequila in Mexico and over
2,000 brand names have been registered!
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| WHAT
IS A JIMADOR?
This figure is well-known; nonetheless,
few know that his name is the JIMADOR. He is
the artisan that cuts the leaves of the agave
plant; it is this man who leaves behind the
piña or heart of the agave. He also cuts
the stalk below the ground using his simple
tool, a long-handled cutting instrument. The
art of a good jimador includes only striking
once to separate the agave’s leaves. Those
who know say that the separation must be made
in a single blow and always at the same height.
|
THE PROCESS OF DISTILLING
TEQUILA begins with the harvesting of the blue agave,
which by this time will typically be 9 or 10 years
old. The spikey leaves are sheared off, leaving the
large ‘piña’ which averages about
50 to 60 pounds (but can grow as large as 200 pounds!).
The piñas are roasted in an oven, where the
heat will convert starches to fermentable sugars,
then pressed to release the sweet juices. The juices
are fermented with each distiller’s secret yeast
for a couple of days, distilled twice, then bottled,
aged, or blended. A typical ‘piña’
will produce an average of 3 to 4 liters/quarts of
tequila.
At this point the
tequila is clear, but many different aging techniques
are employed to produce different subtle flavors and
colors, similar to the way winemakers may choose one
type of wood or another for lending distinctive aromas
and tastes. This type of tequila is called “añejo”,
the Spanish word for ‘aged’. Tequila quality
is observed by the government, which allows up to
49% other (non-agave) sugars to be used; however only
tequila made only from blue agave may be certified
and labeled as “100% pure blue agave”.
The end result is a firey liquor ranging from 70 to
110 proof (35-55% alcohol content).
Tequila is usually
bottled in one of four categories:
• plata or blanca ("silver" –
aged no more than a couple of months)
• oro or joven abocado ("gold" or
"bottled when young" – "silver"
tequila colored to resemble aged tequila)
• reposado ("rested" – aged
about a year)
• añejo ("aged" or "vintage"
– aged from 1 to 3 years)
The aging process changes the color of tequila, but
the liquid can sometimes be colored with caramel to
show a darker color, indicative of a longer aging
process; añejos tend to be darker, the reposados
slightly less dark, while the platas are not colored
at all.
If
you’re drinking tequila ‘straight’,
your shot glass may come with a slice of lime and
a bit of salt. Hardly anybody (except tourists) does
the lick-the-salt-from-your-hand and bite-the-lime
thing, but many prefer to squeeze a few drops of lime
juice into their shot or around the rim. Order a ‘bandera’
(Spanish for ‘flag’), and your tequila
will be served with a lime and another shot glass
with ‘sangrita’, a tasty blend of tomato
and citrus juice. (The combination is red, white,
and green…the colors of the Mexican flag.) And
of course the ever-popular margarita requires tequila
(and lime juice) to give it its unique place in the
world of cocktails, either blended or ‘on the
rocks’, with or without salt on the rim. Whichever
way you drink it, imbibe with moderation…tequila
is for enjoying, not guzzling!
A
FEW FINAL NOTES: ‘Mezcal’ is not tequila,
but rather a similar product from a similar plant.
There is never a worm at the bottom of a bottle of
tequila, but some advertising genius decided this
would be a good way to promote certain brands of mezcal.
Only certain mezcals, usually from the state of Oaxaca,
are ever sold con gusano, and that only began as a
marketing gimmick in the 1940s. The worm is actually
the larval form of the moth Hipopta agavis that lives
on the agave plant. Finding one in the plant during
processing indicates an infestation and, correspondingly,
a lower quality product. Eating the worm will NOT
induce hallucinations, no matter what your old college
buddies swear. Some people who appreciate the effects
of tequila more than its unique taste ‘straight’
will enjoy it mixed with a bit of the juice of orange,
grapefruit, lime, or tomato. Around Puerto Vallarta,
another type of ‘mezcal’ has emerged,
called raicilla (say: ‘rye-see-yah’),
which is generally a VERY potent liquor which will
knock your socks off or substitute for fuel in your
car in an emergency (seriously). When drinking raicilla,
PROCEED WITH CAUTION!!! Click
HERE to read more about raicilla.
TEQUILA NEWS: 2006 Tequila Trade
Agreement
On January 17, 2006 the United States
and Mexico singed an agreement allowing the continued
bulk import of Tequila into the United States. Without
this agreement all tequila would have had to be bottled
in Mexico. In addition to allowing bulk import, the
agreement also created a “tequila bottlers registry”
that identifies approved bottlers of tequila.
Other key elements of the agreement include:
• A prohibition on restrictions of bulk tequila
exports to the United States;
• A prohibition on Mexican regulation of tequila
labeling or marketing, as well as the labeling, formulation,
and marketing of distilled spirits specialty products
outside of Mexico;
• Continuation of current practice with respect
to addressing Mexican concerns regarding the manufacturing
of tequila in the United States; and
• Establishment of a working group to monitor
the implementation of the agreement.